Northern Kerala is the home of Theyyam.
Theyyam is the term for religious and folk dance performances indigenous to the area, which combine dance, music, consultation with the spirits, and religious offerings. These performances are often multi day events and can continue all night. Intensely local it is said there are over 160 forms of Theyyam, based on villages and particular shrines & temples.
Some Theyyam stories are loosely based on Hindu stories, but others can involve telling the tales of local heroes, or of witches & indigenous spirits. Of course many performances will mix up elements of all of these aspects.
A unifying aspect is that the key performers, in their elaborate costumes, will, in the course of the performances, become possessed by the spirits they personify, and as such can be consulted as if speaking directly to the spirit, god or goddess. Although the nighttime performances are known for their spectacular use of fire it can be just as interesting to witness the process of performers becoming the character, with the help of musicians, sacred props, and ritualised movement. Also the climax of some theyyam performances is not necessarily a night time thing, as some Westerners might expect, but occur in the afternoon or morning of the final day when all the characters come together.
Theyyam performance near Calicut, Feb 2025
Theyyam performance near Thallasery Feb 025
Theyyam performance near Thallasery Feb 2025
Practicalities of seeing a theyyam performance
This isn't necessarily easy. Often well off main roads, down winding tracks, local knowledge & access to a car and driver is essential. The exact days and times are also based on the Keralan Lunar calendar so change each year.
The theyyam season runs from approximately late November to March, but seems to bounce around different parts of northern Kerala - there may be 4 or 5 performances near Calicut in December for example, then another group of 4 or 5 in early February. The Keralan Tourist Board does put out a list of performance date, with minimal detail, but unless you're familiar with the Indian system of designating villages & addresses it's hard work to figure out.
Asking locals or your accommodation, sometimes repeatedly, is by far your best bet for finding a performance nearby.
As for the specific meanings or stories being depicted, good luck. Just keep asking around, or enjoy the moment for what it is. We were always very welcome at the theyyam performances we saw, so long as you observe the niceties like removing shoes before entering temple grounds, embracing the sometimes chaotic crowd participation, & remembering that for some people this is their once a year chance to touch or speak to a god.
